Naoshima: An Island Where Art, Architecture and Nature Harmonise
Having been inspired by Yayoi Kusama’s exhibition at the Victoria Miro Gallery in London last year, it was a no-brainer for me that I wanted to try and catch more of her installations and work while travelling in her home country of Japan this February. The road trip my friends and I had planned over the month consisted mainly of short stops in major cities across the country and left little time for museums and galleries in between everything else we wanted to see. However, a planned stop in the Kagawa Prefecture of Shikoku ahead of a large bike ride over the Setonaikai National Park meant that we weren’t too far away from Naoshima Island.
The 8-square-kilometer island, scattered in the Seto Inland Sea, was once home to thriving salt and fishing industries and saw a lot of success after WWII in these areas. As Japan’s economy shifted in the '70s and the bubble era began, the island faced economic decline and struggled with issues surrounding unemployment and environmental degradation.
It was here that the Benesse Corporation, under the direction of renowned architect Tadao Ando, stepped in to transform Naoshima and the surrounding islands into an ensemble of artistic wonders. They created a destination that artists and creative enthusiasts could consider a pilgrimage, hosting installations by maestros of contemporary art and architects, such as Claude Monet, James Turrell and, of course, some of Kusama’s most recognisable pieces.
It was decided that Naoshima would be too great a day to miss out on. So after a slight reshuffle of plans, we got ourselves to the harbour in Takamatsu, jumped on a ferry, and went on our way. Join us on our cycle around Naoshima and visit the exhibitions and installations this magnificent island has to offer.
Yayoi Kusama’s Pumpkins
For fans of Kusama’s work, you’ll know that her pumpkin drawings were some of her earliest creations, with the concept coming to her after developing hallucinations as a child. This style, the colours, and the polka dots are now synonymous with Kusama, and nowhere have I seen a more captivating rendition of this original piece than with the sculptural versions of these pumpkins in Naoshima.
The two pumpkins of Naoshima - Locals tell a story of the yellow pumpkin being flung into the sea during a typhoon and having to be rescued by one of the island’s fishermen. Now, whenever a storm is brewing, it is moved safely into the Benesse House Museum.
You’ll be sure to spot the red pumpkin first, as it’s situated right next to the main harbour where the ferries from the mainland pull in. Don’t forget to stop by for that photo opportunity, as you’ll be able to actually go inside it and poke your head through the polka dot holes carved out of it.
Most recognisable, however, and probably the defining feature of the island, is the yellow pumpkin, installed to the east of the Benesse House Museum for the island’s first-ever public exhibition back in 1994. Although the yellow stands out in contrast to the damp blues of the ocean and dark greens of the nature around it, it truly feels at one with the island, as if it just grew there.
Benesse House Museum
The Benesse House Museum is an incredible complex and encompasses a significant part of the island, hosting a hotel, café, and museum overlooking the Inland Sea.
Designed by Tadao Ando and based on the concept that nature, art, and architecture coexist, the museum boasts a series of great pieces, including works by Hiroshi Sugimoto, David Hockney, Andy Warhol, and Frank Stella.
External to the museum and next to Kusama’s yellow pumpkin are a further 17 sculptures from a variety of different artists, making for an interesting array of different themes, characters, and colours in the museum’s gardens. Niki de Saint Phalle’s colorful animals are quite a stark contrast to Kazuo Katase’s Drink a Cup of Tea, making for an enjoyable experience.
We unfortunately couldn’t stay here long as we were only on a day trip. If this is something that particularly sparks your interest, I would recommend booking a place to stay on the island to truly allow yourself the time to take in all the wonders that Benesse House has accomplished here - it’s truly fascinating.
Honmura Art House Project
Situated to the north of the island, around the smaller but populated port of Honmura, is the Art House Project: a series of six restored properties that now house unique installations, all ideated by different artists under the guidance and architectural prowess of Tadao Ando. Be sure to grab your ticket and book time slots from Honmura Lounge and Archive before embarking on your journey.
The standout installation of the six was Minamidera, a large wooden property that hosts a mind-bending installation by artist James Turrell. It’s definitely something you need to experience for yourself (as I couldn’t even take photographs of it), so I won’t ruin the true purpose and ending of the piece. What it does entail is moving and sitting in the pitch black for a significant amount of time, so fight those fears of the dark for a truly beautiful experience.
Haisha was another interesting property. Once a dentist’s home and office, it has now been transformed into a striking sculptural work of art, featuring a mock version of the Statue of Liberty inside the house and rooms that decrease in size as you move through them. For those of you who like abstract works, this could very much be your home.
Lastly (as I don’t want to spoil it all) is Sea of Time 98, a great installation that involved the members of the island’s community. Set down on a still body of water are a series of LED counters, where the speed at which the numbers change was determined by the island’s inhabitants. Feel free to take a seat and let your eyes wander as you piece this one together.
Other Activities to Add to
THE ITINERARY
There are a lot more galleries and exhibitions to visit. If you’re thinking of staying longer, be sure to check out the Lee Ufan Museum, located in the hillside close to Benesse House. The museum is dedicated to the art of the Korean-born artist, featuring artworks made from stone, concrete, and iron, as well as paintings from Ufan’s earlier years.
The Naoshima Plan ‘The Water’ – A fascinating installation and property restoration by architect Hiroshi Sambuichi that rebuilds one of the old homes occupied by island inhabitants back in the 17th century. The old village in which this historical building is located once used a circulated water system to conserve shared well water, with homes built in a particular ‘south-to-north’ structure that allowed wind to pass through properties like a ‘relay’, cooling the houses in the summer heat. Be sure to visit this brilliant restoration and dip your feet into the pool from the windblown pier so you can feel (as Sambuichi describes it) the "elemental moving materials" of Naoshima.
Take a towel and a swimsuit with you on a hot day, as there are beautiful coves and beaches for a swim - a great way to cool off, especially if cycling around the island. Alternatively, visit the I Love You Naoshima Public Baths, an avant-garde bathhouse with unique sculptures, plant life and a great gift shop, providing you with a refreshing end to your day before leaving.
If heading back to Takamatsu, drive along the E11 seafront road to Bimbi-Ya, an incredible fish restaurant near Naruto. The sashimi and sushi are unbelievably fresh and well-priced. The raw tuna sashimi was unlike anything I have ever tasted - do not miss this!
From left to right - Sculpture of connected fiberglass balls which are used to store the residents and visitors bikes, our group meal at Bimbi-Ya, the beautiful and exotic I Love You Naoshima Public Baths.
My trip to Naoshima is one that will stick with me forever. The project to enhance the island through creative installations and architecture has been done with such care and attentiveness that it feels natural and untouched by human production. It’s a testament to the brilliant artists and architects who have achieved so much here.
Do reach out if you’d like to learn more about Naoshima or need help planning your itinerary - I’d be more than happy to help!
